Mosquito Nets for Windows

There is no single “universal” mosquito net that suits every window equally well — the right type depends on the window’s shape, how often it opens, how much side or top space is free for a cassette, and what matters more to you: cost, looks, or how it holds up under heavy use. This page is a short guide to picking the right one, with a link straight to each type’s full page.

A narrow window with no space on either side: a roller net only needs clearance above the frame, which makes it the default for kitchen and bathroom windows where a side cassette will not fit.

A window you rarely open, or want the cheapest option for: a rigid-frame net has no moving parts at all, costs less than the mechanised types, and is the most durable option for a bedroom or guest-room window.

A wide patio or balcony opening up to about 4 metres: either a pleated net (folds into a slim side cassette, good for doors you walk through often) or a sliding net (moves on a straight track, fewer moving parts, better for openings that stay open a long time) — the two pages explain the trade-off in more detail.

An opening wider than about 4 metres: a single panel will not span it cleanly, so it needs a panoramic multi-panel system built for the exact width.

A window where the view matters when the screen is not in use: a retractable net winds completely out of sight into a slim side tube.

A tall French window or floor-to-ceiling glass: the mechanism is the same pleated or sliding hardware, but built to a slimmer French-window profile so the frame does not compete visually with tall glass.

A door you walk through constantly: either a hinged door screen with magnetic auto-close, or, for genuinely heavy commercial traffic, a reinforced accordion screen.

An opening too high or too heavy to reach comfortably: any of the roller or sliding types above can be built as a motorized version with remote control.

Specs at a glance: every type above uses the same core German fiberglass mesh (18×16 weave, 0.18 mm wire, with a denser 20×20 option for heavy-duty use); what differs between them is the frame, the mechanism, and the installation time, which each linked page covers in full.

• What if my window does not fit neatly into any of these categories? Most do, but unusual shapes (arched, angled, custom-built openings) get confirmed during the free measurement rather than guessed from a category list.
• Can I mix types across the same house? Yes, this is normal — see the whole-villa package page for how a mixed-type project is measured and installed as one job.
• Which type is cheapest? Rigid-frame is generally the least expensive since it has no moving parts; roller and pleated sit in the middle; sliding, panoramic and motorized cost more due to the extra hardware and engineering involved.